Lexus ES300 - Motor revs, but car doesn't move

[c***@yahoo.com]

Dear Experts,

I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.

I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.

This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.

But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.

And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.

And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road. After that, it would
not go forward or backward. Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.

So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine. Up to 6K rpm fine. But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light. There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.

Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the
transmission worked fine.

Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?

Thanks a lot!

[Elmo P. Shagnasty]

In article

Post by c***@yahoo.com
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did.

Best find $2500 or so for a trans rebuild.

Ask me about my 94 ES sometime.

[c***@yahoo.com]

Yes, do tell. Tell me about your 94 ES.
Thanks.

Post by Elmo P. Shagnasty
In article

Post by c***@yahoo.com
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did.

Best find $2500 or so for a trans rebuild.
Ask me about my 94 ES sometime.

[Elmo P. Shagnasty]

In article

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Yes, do tell. Tell me about your 94 ES.

I acquired it at 125K miles, back in Dec. 2003. A couple weeks later,
it had the very transmission troubles you described. Finally, a week
later, it just wouldn't move.

$2500 later, it was fine again.

The car itself and the engine were things of beauty--the engine just ran
and ran, it ran strong, got good gas mileage, started up EVERY time, the
AC was COLD, the stereo was great, it drove GREAT in the snow, and
overall I LOVED driving that car. I put 50K miles on it within the next
3 years, and other than that transmission and a couple other things--I
think I got a new starter and a reman front axle when a CV boot
split--it was a great car.

In fact, I'd buy another tomorrow if I needed a car.

But I will always look at Toyota transmissions as being weak. There's
no excuse for the Lexus brand to have that particular trouble.

[john]

Well, as far as the underlying engineering, Lexus is just a Toyota. So
while we agree that they're nicely dolled up (for example, the Camry-
based Lexus ES, RX), you don't get any more engineering in a U-660E
transmission sold by Aisin, either in a Toyota or a Lexus, or
whichever car company wanting to buy the problematic U-660E from
Aisin.

But I will always look at Toyota transmissions as being weak.  There's
no excuse for the Lexus brand to have that particular trouble.

[Gary L. Burnore]

Post by john
Well, as far as the underlying engineering, Lexus is just a Toyota.

Yeah, and Cadillac is just a Chevy, Lincoln is just a Ford, Acura is just a
Honda ... ... ...

Post by john
So
while we agree that they're nicely dolled up (for example, the Camry-
based Lexus ES, RX), you don't get any more engineering in a U-660E
transmission sold by Aisin, either in a Toyota or a Lexus, or
whichever car company wanting to buy the problematic U-660E from
Aisin.

I still think you're pissed because Lexus got your wife pregnant.

Post by john

But I will always look at Toyota transmissions as being weak.  There's
no excuse for the Lexus brand to have that particular trouble.

--
***@databasix dot com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
How you look depends on where you go.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
| ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
| ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³
Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase
===========================================================================
Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com
===========================================================================

[k***@hotmail.com]

Post by Gary L. Burnore

Post by john
Well, as far as the underlying engineering, Lexus is just a Toyota.

Yeah, and Cadillac is just a Chevy, Lincoln is just a Ford, Acura is just a
Honda ... ... ...

Post by john
So
while we agree that they're nicely dolled up (for example, the Camry-
based Lexus ES, RX), you don't get any more engineering in a U-660E
transmission sold by Aisin, either in a Toyota or a Lexus, or
whichever car company wanting to buy the problematic U-660E from
Aisin.

I still think you're pissed because Lexus got your wife pregnant.

That wasn't Lexus, that was a Donkey that got his wife pregnant!

[Manfred Hollings]

Post by Gary L. Burnore

Post by john
Well, as far as the underlying engineering, Lexus is just a Toyota.

Yeah, and Cadillac is just a Chevy, Lincoln is just a Ford, Acura is just a
Honda ... ... ...

and you are just a fucking moron.

Post by Gary L. Burnore

Post by john
So
while we agree that they're nicely dolled up (for example, the Camry-
based Lexus ES, RX), you don't get any more engineering in a U-660E
transmission sold by Aisin, either in a Toyota or a Lexus, or
whichever car company wanting to buy the problematic U-660E from
Aisin.

I still think you're pissed because Lexus got your wife pregnant.

Post by john

But I will always look at Toyota transmissions as being weak. There's
no excuse for the Lexus brand to have that particular trouble.

--
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
How you look depends on where you go.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
| ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
| ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³
Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase
===========================================================================
Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com
===========================================================================

[k***@hotmail.com]

Post by john
Well, as far as the underlying engineering, Lexus is just a Toyota. So
while we agree that they're nicely dolled up (for example, the Camry-
based Lexus ES, RX), you don't get any more engineering in a U-660E
transmission sold by Aisin, either in a Toyota or a Lexus, or
whichever car company wanting to buy the problematic U-660E from
Aisin.

Post by Elmo P. Shagnasty
But I will always look at Toyota transmissions as being weak. There's
no excuse for the Lexus brand to have that particular trouble.

Sounds like you just can't afford a Lexus. Wasn't that you crying the
other day when you saw a new Lexus drive down the street while you were
in your 2001 Toyota Corolla with torn cloth seats, bald tires, and three
tone paint?

[w***@gmail.com]

Your stupid for you assume ...stupid as dirt

[z***@tink.net]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road. After that, it would
not go forward or backward. Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine. Up to 6K rpm fine. But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light. There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the
transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

First thing to check would be the ATF fluid level.

[JoeSpareBedroom]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.

I was about to ask about the driving habits of everyone who's used the car.
But then I noticed that you bought it used. So much for useful information
about how the car's been treated. Unless the transmission had some kind of
nasty defect to begin with, it takes real skill to wreck it in 86K miles.

So, like someone else said, open the checkbook.

[john]

Well, I'd say that about the newer Aisin U-series clunkers. but the
older A-series was generally OK for normal driving, but flimsy when
you push them, especially the differential assembly.

Unless the transmission had some kind of nasty defect to begin with

[Gary L. Burnore]

Well, I'd say[slap]

All anyone need do is read alt.autos.lexus to see why it doesn't matter what
you'd say.

that about the newer Aisin U-series clunkers. but the
older A-series was generally OK for normal driving, but flimsy when
you push them, especially the differential assembly.

Unless the transmission had some kind of nasty defect to begin with

--
***@databasix dot com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
How you look depends on where you go.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
| ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
| ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³
Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase
===========================================================================
Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com
===========================================================================

[Bill Yanaire, ESQ]

Post by Gary L. Burnore

Well, I'd say[slap]

All anyone need do is read alt.autos.lexus to see why it doesn't matter what
you'd say.

Just like yourself. It doesn't matter what you say because all you say is
BULLSHIT.

[Ray O]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road. After that, it would
not go forward or backward. Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine. Up to 6K rpm fine. But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light. There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the
transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

First, check the condition and fill level of the automatic transmission
fluid (ATF). The ATF should be red or reddish-brown and translucent. If it
is black or if there are shiny metallic flakes on the transmission dipstick,
the transmission is probably bad. If the fluid level is low, then add the
correct ATF.

One of the things that will prematurely wear a transmission is shifting from
drive to reverse and vice versa before the vehicle comes to a complete stop.
Shifting directions while the vehicle is in motion has the effect of rapidly
wearing the friction surfaces in the transmission. I see people do this a
lot, and their transmissions rarely last much past 100,000 miles.

An electrical issue would probably cause the check engine light or OD light
to illuminate, and since the vehicle did move for a while, an electrical
issue is not likely.

There is no NOX sensor in the vehicle. Oxides of nitrogen are reduced by
the vehicle's exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system and a malfunctioning
EGR system may cause the engine to stall but would not result in the
symptoms you are describing.

The engine is equipped with knock sensors. When the knock sensors detect
engine knocking or pinging, the engine control computer will retard ignition
timing but will not result in the symptoms you are describing.

The symptoms you are describing sounds like a badly worn transmission, or if
the transmission was flushed within the past year, then dislodged internal
sludge may have clogged an internal fluid passage.

If the vehicle is not drivable, then a proper diagnosis would require
hooking up a transmission pressure gauge for a series of pressure tests.

[Johnny Melvin]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the

transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

Yea like most comments check the ATF level first.
And its condition.
I was never sure how to do this.
Until I checked and found ( told by Toyota Auto box guy )
Run car at least 10 miles.
Leave car idling.
Then check the dip stick level.

I always felt when Toyota filled mine that it was over filled.
But I was not checking it RUNNING.

I hope you find a better solution than opening that Cheque book.

My 1995 4 has 98K miles on now

Good luck

Johnny UK

[m***@aol.com]

Well it sounds like you have done the most important thing ---- you
put it in gear! That is reallllly important. How was reverse? Did you
try it yet?

Second in importance is to check the fluid and make sure there is
some. If you need to add, put real tranny fluid in, not just water. It
does get hot, but the special tranny fluid cools much better than
water does. And besides, water is just too thin and ... well ...
watery.

Another thing to check is the year of manufacture. The first year of
production 1993 ES tranny had this neat little white ball in it that
used to dissolve around 80 to 90,000 miles. Then the tranny would work
a little bit in reverse and much less in forward. So the cheap guys
would drive their 93s in to the dealer in reverse to trade them in.
Most dealers never caught on believing their own line about how good
the product was. That white ball required a really simple total
rebuild. Just a few thousand dollars. Maybe your 99 was retro-fitted
or maybe it was really a 93.

So the Lexus has a rich history of transmission trouble. They have
always had to try much harder by using at least one more gear than the
German trannies have. But of course the Japanese trannies are just
plain rough, no way around it when compared to the German products
found in true Luxury Karz.

[john]

Some people sell their cars as soon as they learn of major problems.
And sounds like this is one of them. As stated by others, the simplest
cause can be low ATF level. Just check and add the proper amount if
low. When any 86K mile transmission stopped moving these days, I'd
guess it's either heavily abused or never been serviced.

Another cause is low ATF line pressure. If these A-series transmission
have never been serviced every 30K miles (or 15K in severe service),
then the friction/steel debris in there probably plugged up a few
things. This can cause accelerated wear to clutch packs and brake
bands, and you basically have to do a rebuild.

These inexpensive Aisin A-series transmissions are fairly dirty and
they lack a suitable filtration system (they have only strainers).
That's why they should be serviced (including strainer) every 15K
miles if you intend to keep them. They're kinda flimsy when you push
them, not performance transmissions by any means, but work well in
typical driving. Some owners have reported they crap out around
80-120K miles.

So I'd:
1. Check fluild level and condition.
2. Drop the pan, replace the strainer (Fram ATF kit), inspect wear
particles and wipe pan clean.
Refill with proper amount of ATF. Cleanliness is important here.
See if this fixes it.

Then it starts to get involved:

3. If not, measure main line pressure.
4. Consider pulling valve body and inspect/clean it and slap on a new
VB gasket kit (see local transtarindustries.com) before you consider a
rebuild.

And then it really gets expensive:

5. Rebuild or get a re-manufactured transmission. Call Jasper Engines
and see if they have one for your model/year.
http://www.jasperengines.com/index.php

I'd recommend only Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Assoc (ATRA)
members. Click on "Find your local ATRA Member".

www.atra.com

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission.  Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery.  And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery.  The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did.  On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started.  I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear.  But the familiar push from the idle was not
there.  I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster.  I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road.  After that, it would
not go forward or backward.  Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine.  Up to 6K rpm fine.  But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all.  But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light.  There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.

[JoeSpareBedroom]

"john" <***@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:0c2e808c-b60a-4b59-8f42-***@d32g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...

These inexpensive Aisin A-series transmissions......
==================

Is Aisin a brand name, or are you attempting to describe where they're made?

[john]

Not where they are made, by who makes them. You don't think there are
actually "Toyota transmissions", "Toyota gas", "Toyota spark plugs",
"Toyota tires" do you? ;) ;) ;)

Aisin AW (Aisin-Warner) is the company that makes transmissions for
Toyota and some other makes, including some GM and Ford cars!! They
had a joint venture with Borg Warner for all the transmission
technology, that's why a division is called Aisin-Warner. There are
different divisions that makes truck transmissions and probably goes
by other names, like Aisin Seiki, etc. That said, Toyota does invest a
sizable chunk in the company.

The new U-series clunkers came into play after they discontinued the
joint venture, and that seemed to coincide with a lot more
transmission problems like shifting and gear skipping issues we've
heard about.


On Jul 1, 8:19 pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" <***@frontiernet.net>
wrote:
These inexpensive Aisin A-series transmissions......
==================

Is Aisin a brand name, or are you attempting to describe where they're
made?

[JoeSpareBedroom]

I'm always amazed when any manufacturer is able to look at many examples of
things that work, and then make a conscious decision to make things that
don't work. Genius Scott Adams is exploring a similar issue at the moment.
Check July 1, 2 and 3.

http://dilbert.com/strips/


"john" <***@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:9d40405e-5b4f-4727-a838-***@a37g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Not where they are made, by who makes them. You don't think there are
actually "Toyota transmissions", "Toyota gas", "Toyota spark plugs",
"Toyota tires" do you? ;) ;) ;)

Aisin AW (Aisin-Warner) is the company that makes transmissions for
Toyota and some other makes, including some GM and Ford cars!! They
had a joint venture with Borg Warner for all the transmission
technology, that's why a division is called Aisin-Warner. There are
different divisions that makes truck transmissions and probably goes
by other names, like Aisin Seiki, etc. That said, Toyota does invest a
sizable chunk in the company.

The new U-series clunkers came into play after they discontinued the
joint venture, and that seemed to coincide with a lot more
transmission problems like shifting and gear skipping issues we've
heard about.


On Jul 1, 8:19 pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" <***@frontiernet.net>
wrote:
These inexpensive Aisin A-series transmissions......
==================

Is Aisin a brand name, or are you attempting to describe where they're
made?

[k***@hotmail.com]

Post by john
Not where they are made, by who makes them. You don't think there are
actually "Toyota transmissions", "Toyota gas", "Toyota spark plugs",
"Toyota tires" do you? ;) ;) ;)
Aisin AW (Aisin-Warner) is the company that makes transmissions for
Toyota and some other makes, including some GM and Ford cars!! They
had a joint venture with Borg Warner for all the transmission
technology, that's why a division is called Aisin-Warner. There are
different divisions that makes truck transmissions and probably goes
by other names, like Aisin Seiki, etc. That said, Toyota does invest a
sizable chunk in the company.
The new U-series clunkers came into play after they discontinued the
joint venture, and that seemed to coincide with a lot more
transmission problems like shifting and gear skipping issues we've
heard about.
These inexpensive Aisin A-series transmissions......
==================
Is Aisin a brand name, or are you attempting to describe where they're made?

If you could get a better job that paid you more than the $9.75 you get
now, you could dream about getting a luxury Lexus but that will always
escape you. Too bad. HA HA HA HA

[Built_Well]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of this problem/symptom,
and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now. Automatic
transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6. Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost. So today, I changed the
battery. And installed a powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the transmission wasn't
engaging the way it normally did. On the way to the battery shop, the
engine started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car in gear. But
the familiar push from the idle was not there. I had to rev the engine
before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to rev the engine to about 5
or 6 thousand RPM before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway, any more gas (RPM) would not
make the car go any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over to the
side of the road. After that, it would not go forward or backward. Even
if the engine was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run fine. Up to 6K rpm fine.
But when you put the car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are no
new lights illuminating the dashboard, such as the check engine light.
There doesn't seem to be any strange mechanical sound.
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or solution would be? I'm
hoping that it will be something simple like an electrical issue. Perhaps
the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

=======

That's rough, having that kind of transmission problem so soon after
buying the Lexus. Good luck to you. It might have been a good idea to
have gotten an ATF fluid analysis done on the car before buying it.
Blackstone Labs would have charged $22. 86,000 miles sure is premature
for a transmission failure.

[Cloud Burst]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.

[snip]

This sounds like something I had and probably why I got the
car at such a good price. An ES300 with 86K on it is barely
broken in, so I doubt it is the transmission.

For me it was some kind of electronic control, possibly even
related to cruise control. Sorry I don't remember all the
details, or even any of them. I do remember after they did
some diagnosis they replaced a control unit and everything
worked fine after that. It wasn't easy for them to find, so
don't buy "the transmission needs to be replaced" until they
really check. I remember it was less than $1K.

[Ray O]

Post by Cloud Burst

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.

[snip]
This sounds like something I had and probably why I got the
car at such a good price. An ES300 with 86K on it is barely
broken in, so I doubt it is the transmission.
For me it was some kind of electronic control, possibly even
related to cruise control. Sorry I don't remember all the
details, or even any of them. I do remember after they did
some diagnosis they replaced a control unit and everything
worked fine after that. It wasn't easy for them to find, so
don't buy "the transmission needs to be replaced" until they
really check. I remember it was less than $1K.

As I mentioned before, the proper diagnosis for the condition described by
the OP would be to check the condition and quantity of ATF and install a
transmission pressure gauge to measure line pressures. These simple steps
will tell a competent technician whether or not the transmission is good or
not.

[c***@yahoo.com]

Ok, it's fixed, and here is the update.

First of all, thanks so much to John for recommending ATRA!


I first took the car to a transmission place that I went
to last year. They wanted $3200 to rebuild the tranny!

I searched for ATRA members in my area, and found
another place. In the end, I went there, and only
paid $1700 for the rebuild!

Both places said that it needed a rebuild. That these
Lexus transmissions were one of the Lexus weaknesses.

There were metal shavings/dust that was sticking to
the magnets in the transmission pan.

When the transmission was apart, I took a look at
all the damage. There were chipped gears. And a
cyndrilic object that had metal chewed off the
outside edges at the end. About 4 inches in diameter,
and 6 inches in length. Welds holding gears that had
loosened. Lots of damage! No wonder it didn't want to move.

He said it looked like the transmission had already
been replaced. And that one gasket had been put on the
wrong side of an object. That was the reason it self
destructed. So, from what he told me, it was an off the
shelf rebuilt transmission. Put together wrong.
And slowly self destructed over time.

Now that it's replaced, the car sounds different.
I'd thought after I bought the car, that it sounded different
from my old Camry. There was always some noise
when I accelerated, and coasted. Now, the Lexus sounds
more like my Camry did. It's quieter.

Fortunately, there was no reason to change any of the
electronic sensors, which would have been extra. I'd had no
lights coming up on the dash.

One thing I learned when I contacted the Lexus dealership.
These transmissions require the Toyota number 4 transmission
fluid. Regular Dextron 3, will cause the transmission
to self destruct over time. The Lexus parts guy said that
Jiffy Lube had indirectly been one of their best customers.
Because they kept causing so many failed transmissions by
using Dextron 3.

So, I hope this helps anyone else who has issues with their
Lexus. Good luck!

[j***@gmail.com]

Heyy my Lexus 1993 ES300 is doing the same problem that you came across. Now it won't drive or reverse even when the rpms increase. I was wondering if you ever fixed the problem, if you did how, or if you just sold it.

[1***@gmail.com]

Did you ever find out why your car wont increase

[l***@gmail.com]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road. After that, it would
not go forward or backward. Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine. Up to 6K rpm fine. But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light. There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the
transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

hi did you ever find out what your problem was becouse i have same problem in a 2000 lexus es300

[a***@gmail.com]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road. After that, it would
not go forward or backward. Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine. Up to 6K rpm fine. But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light. There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the
transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

[a***@gmail.com]

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road. After that, it would
not go forward or backward. Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine. Up to 6K rpm fine. But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light. There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the
transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

Its not the knock sensor, some kind of cable to transmission.

[z]

Post by a***@gmail.com

Post by c***@yahoo.com
Dear Experts,
I'm hoping to find someone who might have heard of
this problem/symptom, and know the solution.
I have a 99 Lexus ES300 Coach Edition, with about 86K miles now.
Automatic transmission. Very similar to a Camry XLE V6.
Bought used last year.
This past week, it wouldn't start without a boost.
So today, I changed the battery. And installed a
powerful 800 cold cranking amp battery. The old
battery had a bad cell.
But even before I did this, I noticed that the
transmission wasn't engaging the way it normally
did. On the way to the battery shop, the engine
started. I put my foot on the brake and put the car
in gear. But the familiar push from the idle was not
there. I had to rev the engine before it moved.
And tonight, when I was driving home, I had to
rev the engine to about 5 or 6 thousand RPM
before it accelerated.
And soon when I was driving down the highway,
any more gas (RPM) would not make the car go
any faster. I was just coasting, and coasted over
to the side of the road. After that, it would
not go forward or backward. Even if the engine
was running at a few thousand RPM.
So, the symptom is that the engine seems to run
fine. Up to 6K rpm fine. But when you put the
car in gear, it won't go at all. But there are
no new lights illuminating the dashboard, such
as the check engine light. There doesn't seem to
be any strange mechanical sound.
Only 86K miles! My Camry went to 180K and the
transmission worked fine.
Does anyone know what would be the cause and/or
solution would be? I'm hoping that it will be
something simple like an electrical issue.
Perhaps the NOX sensor?
Thanks a lot!

Its not the knock sensor, some kind of cable to transmission.

Low on transmission fluid I suspect.