Discussion:
Question about "paint protection film option"
(too old to reply)
Michael Walken
2010-06-19 00:00:49 UTC
Permalink
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.

I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.

Specifically:

1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.

2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?

Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
Ray O
2010-06-19 15:13:41 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it has a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.

Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.

Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Michael Walken
2010-06-19 15:42:28 UTC
Permalink
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it has a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Ray O
2010-06-19 16:22:35 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it has a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Toyota had problems with the paint being abraded at the leading edge of
pickup truck beds and at the front lower edge of rear wheel arch openings,
and on the rocker panels of some cars. The cure was the application of the
film. I was skeptical at first, but the film was effective.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Michael Walken
2010-06-19 20:14:45 UTC
Permalink
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:22:35 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it has a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Toyota had problems with the paint being abraded at the leading edge of
pickup truck beds and at the front lower edge of rear wheel arch openings,
and on the rocker panels of some cars. The cure was the application of the
film. I was skeptical at first, but the film was effective.
You seem knowledgable about the brand, do you work for Toyota/Lexus?

Sorry if I'm insulting a regular or missing something in a FAQ or
otherwise opening myself up to noob insults. Many years back I used
to frequent auto newsgroups often once upon a time but I am completely
new to this one.

Looking forward to my IS 250 though, I have finalized paperwork on it
and will be driving it before the end of the month (just waiting for
it to arrive).
Ray O
2010-06-20 00:11:28 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:22:35 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it has a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Toyota had problems with the paint being abraded at the leading edge of
pickup truck beds and at the front lower edge of rear wheel arch openings,
and on the rocker panels of some cars. The cure was the application of the
film. I was skeptical at first, but the film was effective.
You seem knowledgable about the brand, do you work for Toyota/Lexus?
Sorry if I'm insulting a regular or missing something in a FAQ or
otherwise opening myself up to noob insults. Many years back I used
to frequent auto newsgroups often once upon a time but I am completely
new to this one.
Looking forward to my IS 250 though, I have finalized paperwork on it
and will be driving it before the end of the month (just waiting for
it to arrive).
I spent 15 years working for Toyota but have been out of the car business
for 17 years now.

Enjoy your new IS!
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Michael Walken
2010-06-20 02:15:55 UTC
Permalink
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 19:11:28 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:22:35 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it has a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Toyota had problems with the paint being abraded at the leading edge of
pickup truck beds and at the front lower edge of rear wheel arch openings,
and on the rocker panels of some cars. The cure was the application of the
film. I was skeptical at first, but the film was effective.
You seem knowledgable about the brand, do you work for Toyota/Lexus?
Sorry if I'm insulting a regular or missing something in a FAQ or
otherwise opening myself up to noob insults. Many years back I used
to frequent auto newsgroups often once upon a time but I am completely
new to this one.
Looking forward to my IS 250 though, I have finalized paperwork on it
and will be driving it before the end of the month (just waiting for
it to arrive).
I spent 15 years working for Toyota but have been out of the car business
for 17 years now.
Enjoy your new IS!
Excellent, and thanks. I'm looking forward to the car. It will have
somewhat less horsepower than I'm used to, but I realized that I
didn't use about half of the horsepower I had in my previous cars 80%
of the time... on the rare occasions that I did, I ended up with
speeding tickets :) Unfortunately the smiley does not indicate a
joke, I really did get them a lot and I hated getting them and hated
paying my lawyer to get them dismissed (still cheaper than the
insurance hit though).

In my 40s now, I am more than willing to give up a little "feel the
road" with this car, especially when the roads often consist of
potholes in my area. Looking for a little softer ride, and also
better gas mileage. Could not stand the thought of a four-cylinder
anything (I just cannot stand the hi-RPM noise on the interstate), so
I'll take a six with a quiet ride and a little less 0-60 time. I've
always kind of enjoyed a soft, luxurious ride and I hope and expect
this is what I will get with this car, with a little bit of sports
sedan spunk thrown in. My last car had sports suspension and several
wheel bearing / hub assembly replacements which got expensive. This
seems like a pretty well balanced little car.
Ray O
2010-06-20 04:54:07 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 19:11:28 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:22:35 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it
has
a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Toyota had problems with the paint being abraded at the leading edge of
pickup truck beds and at the front lower edge of rear wheel arch openings,
and on the rocker panels of some cars. The cure was the application of the
film. I was skeptical at first, but the film was effective.
You seem knowledgable about the brand, do you work for Toyota/Lexus?
Sorry if I'm insulting a regular or missing something in a FAQ or
otherwise opening myself up to noob insults. Many years back I used
to frequent auto newsgroups often once upon a time but I am completely
new to this one.
Looking forward to my IS 250 though, I have finalized paperwork on it
and will be driving it before the end of the month (just waiting for
it to arrive).
I spent 15 years working for Toyota but have been out of the car business
for 17 years now.
Enjoy your new IS!
Excellent, and thanks. I'm looking forward to the car. It will have
somewhat less horsepower than I'm used to, but I realized that I
didn't use about half of the horsepower I had in my previous cars 80%
of the time... on the rare occasions that I did, I ended up with
speeding tickets :) Unfortunately the smiley does not indicate a
joke, I really did get them a lot and I hated getting them and hated
paying my lawyer to get them dismissed (still cheaper than the
insurance hit though).
In my 40s now, I am more than willing to give up a little "feel the
road" with this car, especially when the roads often consist of
potholes in my area. Looking for a little softer ride, and also
better gas mileage. Could not stand the thought of a four-cylinder
anything (I just cannot stand the hi-RPM noise on the interstate), so
I'll take a six with a quiet ride and a little less 0-60 time. I've
always kind of enjoyed a soft, luxurious ride and I hope and expect
this is what I will get with this car, with a little bit of sports
sedan spunk thrown in. My last car had sports suspension and several
wheel bearing / hub assembly replacements which got expensive. This
seems like a pretty well balanced little car.
I'm assuming that you have driven the model car you are buying. The Lexus
dealer gave me an IS 250 AWD to drive, and after driving my LS. the ride
seemed a lot stiffer than the LS to me. It was fun to drive, it handled
much better than my LS, and was very quiet but not as quiet as the LS. I
now do commercial real estate sales, so the extra leg and elbow room in the
LS is nice for my clients but I would consider an IS if I didn't have to
worry about more than 1 passenger most of the time.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Michael Walken
2010-06-20 05:17:43 UTC
Permalink
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 23:54:07 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 19:11:28 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:22:35 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it
has
a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces the chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Toyota had problems with the paint being abraded at the leading edge of
pickup truck beds and at the front lower edge of rear wheel arch openings,
and on the rocker panels of some cars. The cure was the application of the
film. I was skeptical at first, but the film was effective.
You seem knowledgable about the brand, do you work for Toyota/Lexus?
Sorry if I'm insulting a regular or missing something in a FAQ or
otherwise opening myself up to noob insults. Many years back I used
to frequent auto newsgroups often once upon a time but I am completely
new to this one.
Looking forward to my IS 250 though, I have finalized paperwork on it
and will be driving it before the end of the month (just waiting for
it to arrive).
I spent 15 years working for Toyota but have been out of the car business
for 17 years now.
Enjoy your new IS!
Excellent, and thanks. I'm looking forward to the car. It will have
somewhat less horsepower than I'm used to, but I realized that I
didn't use about half of the horsepower I had in my previous cars 80%
of the time... on the rare occasions that I did, I ended up with
speeding tickets :) Unfortunately the smiley does not indicate a
joke, I really did get them a lot and I hated getting them and hated
paying my lawyer to get them dismissed (still cheaper than the
insurance hit though).
In my 40s now, I am more than willing to give up a little "feel the
road" with this car, especially when the roads often consist of
potholes in my area. Looking for a little softer ride, and also
better gas mileage. Could not stand the thought of a four-cylinder
anything (I just cannot stand the hi-RPM noise on the interstate), so
I'll take a six with a quiet ride and a little less 0-60 time. I've
always kind of enjoyed a soft, luxurious ride and I hope and expect
this is what I will get with this car, with a little bit of sports
sedan spunk thrown in. My last car had sports suspension and several
wheel bearing / hub assembly replacements which got expensive. This
seems like a pretty well balanced little car.
I'm assuming that you have driven the model car you are buying. The Lexus
dealer gave me an IS 250 AWD to drive, and after driving my LS. the ride
seemed a lot stiffer than the LS to me. It was fun to drive, it handled
much better than my LS, and was very quiet but not as quiet as the LS. I
now do commercial real estate sales, so the extra leg and elbow room in the
LS is nice for my clients but I would consider an IS if I didn't have to
worry about more than 1 passenger most of the time.
Even though I've given the courtesy deposit, if for some reason I hate
the car after it comes in I can still work something out (I doubt that
would happen though).

I drove an IS when it first came out, but not recently..I understand
it's been refined slightly since then. I'm buying it using the same
basic strategy as I did previous cars: there may be something I don't
like about it but I'm probably not going to identify it in a last
minute test drive, the small irritations are usually getting over
whatever I was used to before and go away in a couple of days if that
makes sense. I'm one of those creature of habit types and if there is
something I don't like I will get over it pretty quickly, just a
matter of giving myself time to adapt to the new. The sort of stuff
that would give me long-term buyers remorse is something like total
back discomfort on long drives (aside from body pains I'm pretty easy
going), and Japanese cars have never disappointed me over the
long-term.

With regard to passenger load you just described my lifestyle and why
this is the right car for I think....naturally that was part of my
research and I realized the cramped back seats of the IS were not an
issue in my case. Some of the other cars on my menu were actually
2-door coupes with less in the back believe it or not. In my line of
work, having no room for others often means the discount of being able
to catch a ride with someone else and foregoing ever-rediculous fuel
costs :) (that's not really my primary motive as much as a side
benefit of small back seats).
Ray O
2010-06-20 05:43:38 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 23:54:07 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 19:11:28 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 11:22:35 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
On Sat, 19 Jun 2010 10:13:41 -0500, "Ray O"
Post by Ray O
Post by Michael Walken
Most of the cars I've owned end up with annoying chips on the hood
eventually. I tend to keep a car 5-7 years so it probably doesn't
impact resale much as much as it is just aggravating.
I will be ordering a 2010 IS 250 soon, or perhaps finding one in
inventory and would like to know more about the paint option. I'm
sure the dealer will be happy to educate me but I would like some
unbiased feedback.
1. Is this a worthwhile option for preventing "highway hood dings"?
It's the long interstate drives where the average speed seems to be
about 75 to 80, and I hear the rock crunch the front of my car that
really drives me nuts. The economic downturn has meant less
dumptrucks with rocks falling out of them for the past few years but
I'm already seeing signs of that changing.
2. Does it dull the sheen of metallic painted surfaces at all once
applied? For example, if I put it only on the hood, would I be able
to see a difference in shine between the hood and front fenders?
Thanks to anyone who has hands-on experience with this product, if
you've only read about it you're no more knowledgeable on the subject
than me (with regard to the above questions at least) so in that case
I'll be happy to trade notes :)
The paint protection film that the factory uses is effective but it
has
a
pebbled appearance so when the factory applies the film, it is used in
inconspicuous areas like rocker panels and wheel wells.
Front end masks or bras are not always effective because if they become
loose, they will flap and damage the paint underneath.
Increasing the distance between vehicles at higher speeds reduces
the
chance
that rocks kicked up from tires will hit your car. When I encounter a
stretch or road with lots of debris, I just hang back until there is less
debris on the road and then work on getting past traffic.
Thanks for the info, sounds like I should pass on using this stuff to
protect the front from rock dings. It seems odd to put film in
inconspicuous areas, I'm not sure I care as much about rock dings in
inconspicuous areas (unless they are major dings, which have never
really been a problem for me and I doubt the film would handle rocks
after a certain size).
Toyota had problems with the paint being abraded at the leading edge of
pickup truck beds and at the front lower edge of rear wheel arch openings,
and on the rocker panels of some cars. The cure was the application
of
the
film. I was skeptical at first, but the film was effective.
You seem knowledgable about the brand, do you work for Toyota/Lexus?
Sorry if I'm insulting a regular or missing something in a FAQ or
otherwise opening myself up to noob insults. Many years back I used
to frequent auto newsgroups often once upon a time but I am completely
new to this one.
Looking forward to my IS 250 though, I have finalized paperwork on it
and will be driving it before the end of the month (just waiting for
it to arrive).
I spent 15 years working for Toyota but have been out of the car business
for 17 years now.
Enjoy your new IS!
Excellent, and thanks. I'm looking forward to the car. It will have
somewhat less horsepower than I'm used to, but I realized that I
didn't use about half of the horsepower I had in my previous cars 80%
of the time... on the rare occasions that I did, I ended up with
speeding tickets :) Unfortunately the smiley does not indicate a
joke, I really did get them a lot and I hated getting them and hated
paying my lawyer to get them dismissed (still cheaper than the
insurance hit though).
In my 40s now, I am more than willing to give up a little "feel the
road" with this car, especially when the roads often consist of
potholes in my area. Looking for a little softer ride, and also
better gas mileage. Could not stand the thought of a four-cylinder
anything (I just cannot stand the hi-RPM noise on the interstate), so
I'll take a six with a quiet ride and a little less 0-60 time. I've
always kind of enjoyed a soft, luxurious ride and I hope and expect
this is what I will get with this car, with a little bit of sports
sedan spunk thrown in. My last car had sports suspension and several
wheel bearing / hub assembly replacements which got expensive. This
seems like a pretty well balanced little car.
I'm assuming that you have driven the model car you are buying. The Lexus
dealer gave me an IS 250 AWD to drive, and after driving my LS. the ride
seemed a lot stiffer than the LS to me. It was fun to drive, it handled
much better than my LS, and was very quiet but not as quiet as the LS. I
now do commercial real estate sales, so the extra leg and elbow room in the
LS is nice for my clients but I would consider an IS if I didn't have to
worry about more than 1 passenger most of the time.
Even though I've given the courtesy deposit, if for some reason I hate
the car after it comes in I can still work something out (I doubt that
would happen though).
I drove an IS when it first came out, but not recently..I understand
it's been refined slightly since then. I'm buying it using the same
basic strategy as I did previous cars: there may be something I don't
like about it but I'm probably not going to identify it in a last
minute test drive, the small irritations are usually getting over
whatever I was used to before and go away in a couple of days if that
makes sense. I'm one of those creature of habit types and if there is
something I don't like I will get over it pretty quickly, just a
matter of giving myself time to adapt to the new. The sort of stuff
that would give me long-term buyers remorse is something like total
back discomfort on long drives (aside from body pains I'm pretty easy
going), and Japanese cars have never disappointed me over the
long-term.
With regard to passenger load you just described my lifestyle and why
this is the right car for I think....naturally that was part of my
research and I realized the cramped back seats of the IS were not an
issue in my case. Some of the other cars on my menu were actually
2-door coupes with less in the back believe it or not. In my line of
work, having no room for others often means the discount of being able
to catch a ride with someone else and foregoing ever-rediculous fuel
costs :) (that's not really my primary motive as much as a side
benefit of small back seats).
It sounds like you have thought this through, so....
Enjoy your new ride!
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
David Z
2010-06-20 17:03:33 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael Walken
I drove an IS when it first came out, but not recently..I understand
it's been refined slightly since then. I'm buying it using the same
basic strategy as I did previous cars: there may be something I don't
like about it but I'm probably not going to identify it in a last
minute test drive, the small irritations are usually getting over
whatever I was used to before and go away in a couple of days if that
makes sense. I'm one of those creature of habit types and if there is
something I don't like I will get over it pretty quickly, just a
matter of giving myself time to adapt to the new. The sort of stuff
that would give me long-term buyers remorse is something like total
back discomfort on long drives (aside from body pains I'm pretty easy
going), and Japanese cars have never disappointed me over the
long-term.
I would never buy a car without driving it first. I agree that some
disappointments may not surface on a test drive. Nonetheless, I cannot see
myself ever buying a car without test driving it first.
Michael Walken
2010-06-20 18:33:25 UTC
Permalink
Post by David Z
Post by Michael Walken
I drove an IS when it first came out, but not recently..I understand
it's been refined slightly since then. I'm buying it using the same
basic strategy as I did previous cars: there may be something I don't
like about it but I'm probably not going to identify it in a last
minute test drive, the small irritations are usually getting over
whatever I was used to before and go away in a couple of days if that
makes sense. I'm one of those creature of habit types and if there is
something I don't like I will get over it pretty quickly, just a
matter of giving myself time to adapt to the new. The sort of stuff
that would give me long-term buyers remorse is something like total
back discomfort on long drives (aside from body pains I'm pretty easy
going), and Japanese cars have never disappointed me over the
long-term.
I would never buy a car without driving it first. I agree that some
disappointments may not surface on a test drive. Nonetheless, I cannot see
myself ever buying a car without test driving it first.
I understand how most folks feel that way. Many years ago my dad used
to buy & sell a lot of used cars as sort of a freelance job /
interest, and because of that I got to drive a wide assortment of
autos, not just for a day or two, but long enough to get quite
familiar with them (sometimes I drove a particular vehicle for many
weeks).

There were of course some cars I liked more than others, and the
reasons varied, but the one thing that noticed is that almost any of
them would grow on me as I drove it. In other words, the car I like
best is the one I'm most familiar with (for the most part). I will
find design elements that will make me think I wish it did this or
that differently, but ultimately I'll get used to it.

I have a bad ankle from a running injury, that likes me to position it
a certain way when I'm sitting. When I bought my last car, I did test
drive one before I ordered, but I did not notice that the design of
the driver compartment near the floor was shaped such that I would not
be able to position my left foot the way I was used to, because the
ankle won't start hurting if the positioning isn't right on shorter
drives. Well I did get a bit of buyers remorse about 2 hours after
driving my car off the lot, wondered how I was going to get myself out
of that one. With a little experimentation I found that if I just
modified the angle of my heal slightly, all was good and my foot
played nicely with the car. And, all these years later and it hasn't
been an issue at all on long drives.

I suspect there will be some teething pains between me and this car as
well, but on the whole I know exactly what I'm purchasing.
David Z
2010-06-20 18:53:08 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael Walken
Post by David Z
Post by Michael Walken
I drove an IS when it first came out, but not recently..I understand
it's been refined slightly since then. I'm buying it using the same
basic strategy as I did previous cars: there may be something I don't
like about it but I'm probably not going to identify it in a last
minute test drive, the small irritations are usually getting over
whatever I was used to before and go away in a couple of days if that
makes sense. I'm one of those creature of habit types and if there is
something I don't like I will get over it pretty quickly, just a
matter of giving myself time to adapt to the new. The sort of stuff
that would give me long-term buyers remorse is something like total
back discomfort on long drives (aside from body pains I'm pretty easy
going), and Japanese cars have never disappointed me over the
long-term.
I would never buy a car without driving it first. I agree that some
disappointments may not surface on a test drive. Nonetheless, I cannot see
myself ever buying a car without test driving it first.
I understand how most folks feel that way. Many years ago my dad used
to buy & sell a lot of used cars as sort of a freelance job /
interest, and because of that I got to drive a wide assortment of
autos, not just for a day or two, but long enough to get quite
familiar with them (sometimes I drove a particular vehicle for many
weeks).
There were of course some cars I liked more than others, and the
reasons varied, but the one thing that noticed is that almost any of
them would grow on me as I drove it. In other words, the car I like
best is the one I'm most familiar with (for the most part). I will
find design elements that will make me think I wish it did this or
that differently, but ultimately I'll get used to it.
I have a bad ankle from a running injury, that likes me to position it
a certain way when I'm sitting. When I bought my last car, I did test
drive one before I ordered, but I did not notice that the design of
the driver compartment near the floor was shaped such that I would not
be able to position my left foot the way I was used to, because the
ankle won't start hurting if the positioning isn't right on shorter
drives. Well I did get a bit of buyers remorse about 2 hours after
driving my car off the lot, wondered how I was going to get myself out
of that one. With a little experimentation I found that if I just
modified the angle of my heal slightly, all was good and my foot
played nicely with the car. And, all these years later and it hasn't
been an issue at all on long drives.
I suspect there will be some teething pains between me and this car as
well, but on the whole I know exactly what I'm purchasing.
Why would you pass up the opportunity to test drive? Putting the due
diligence issue aside (which IMO is more than reason enough to do it), I
would think that it would be a fun thing to do for anyone considering a car
purchase.

Does it come with an ashtray?
Michael Walken
2010-06-20 22:06:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by David Z
Post by Michael Walken
Post by David Z
Post by Michael Walken
I drove an IS when it first came out, but not recently..I understand
it's been refined slightly since then. I'm buying it using the same
basic strategy as I did previous cars: there may be something I don't
like about it but I'm probably not going to identify it in a last
minute test drive, the small irritations are usually getting over
whatever I was used to before and go away in a couple of days if that
makes sense. I'm one of those creature of habit types and if there is
something I don't like I will get over it pretty quickly, just a
matter of giving myself time to adapt to the new. The sort of stuff
that would give me long-term buyers remorse is something like total
back discomfort on long drives (aside from body pains I'm pretty easy
going), and Japanese cars have never disappointed me over the
long-term.
I would never buy a car without driving it first. I agree that some
disappointments may not surface on a test drive. Nonetheless, I cannot see
myself ever buying a car without test driving it first.
I understand how most folks feel that way. Many years ago my dad used
to buy & sell a lot of used cars as sort of a freelance job /
interest, and because of that I got to drive a wide assortment of
autos, not just for a day or two, but long enough to get quite
familiar with them (sometimes I drove a particular vehicle for many
weeks).
There were of course some cars I liked more than others, and the
reasons varied, but the one thing that noticed is that almost any of
them would grow on me as I drove it. In other words, the car I like
best is the one I'm most familiar with (for the most part). I will
find design elements that will make me think I wish it did this or
that differently, but ultimately I'll get used to it.
I have a bad ankle from a running injury, that likes me to position it
a certain way when I'm sitting. When I bought my last car, I did test
drive one before I ordered, but I did not notice that the design of
the driver compartment near the floor was shaped such that I would not
be able to position my left foot the way I was used to, because the
ankle won't start hurting if the positioning isn't right on shorter
drives. Well I did get a bit of buyers remorse about 2 hours after
driving my car off the lot, wondered how I was going to get myself out
of that one. With a little experimentation I found that if I just
modified the angle of my heal slightly, all was good and my foot
played nicely with the car. And, all these years later and it hasn't
been an issue at all on long drives.
I suspect there will be some teething pains between me and this car as
well, but on the whole I know exactly what I'm purchasing.
Why would you pass up the opportunity to test drive?
I have driven an IS 250 before. These cars got a small amount of
refinement in 2009, but aside from that there aren't sweeping changes
since I drove. I have not driven the exact one I am purchasing, I
will "test drive" the actual car I am buying once it arrives.

Also, I got the deal I did because I called up the dealership's
manager and gave a no BS bottom line bid, for what I know to be the
lowest price possible for this car. He said yes over the phone then
gave it to a sales manager to close everything up, but I think a lot
of that was because I called up and made an offer without wasting
anyone's time. If I had wandered into the dealership for a test
drive, I doubt I would have gotten this deal.
Post by David Z
Putting the due
diligence issue aside (which IMO is more than reason enough to do it), I
would think that it would be a fun thing to do for anyone considering a car
purchase.
It might be fun if I've never driven one before, but I have so based
on my previous test drives I did not think it was really the best use
of time.
Post by David Z
Does it come with an ashtray?
I couldn't care less about ashtrays, I only pay attention to the
features that matter to me. But since ashtrays are not on the spec
sheet with the VIN# they gave me when I dropped by to validate the
deal, I would not expect to see one in the car.

For the record I'm not disagreeing with your strategy of test drving
first or saying you can't still get a deal that way, it probably is a
good approach for many folks.

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