May I ask a Toyota transmission question please??

Post by slakka
May I ask a Toyota transmission question please??
Dear newsgroup,
I wonder if I may ask you, who in your opinion is the most
knowledgeable person for me to ask about a Toyota transmission, 1991
Camry please? I gotta wee bit of a problem (actually me mum). Any
thoughts you may share with me would be very appreciated and thanks in
advance!
Most Gratefully, big ed
PS Please don't respond to email above. Its unopenable.

Ray is the best, but none of us will have any idea whatsoever if you don't
ask!!!

Gary L. Burnore

2006-11-10 01:37:37 UTC

Ask the question. You'll get answers.
--
gburnore at DataBasix dot Com
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slakka

2006-11-10 03:41:37 UTC

OK here goes. I got a 91 camry auto trans. It seems like occasionally
when shifting from neutral to reverse its gives like a violent CLUNK.
Other times it shifts very smoothly. I was told its not the motor
mounts so im thinking tranny. Any ideas, and who is Ray?

e

Post by Gary L. Burnore

Hachiroku

2006-11-10 13:32:01 UTC

Post by slakka
OK here goes. I got a 91 camry auto trans. It seems like occasionally
when shifting from neutral to reverse its gives like a violent CLUNK.
Other times it shifts very smoothly. I was told its not the motor
mounts so im thinking tranny. Any ideas, and who is Ray?

Ray is our current actual bona-fide Toyota guy. He was a Factory Rep for
a few years, and knows a lot about Toys. Not only that, he is a really
good guy, as you saw from your rapid response!

In addition to the motor mounts, it could also be one or both axles, which
I may be inclined to believe even more than motor/tranny mounts. There are
ways to check both. With the engine running, the Parking brake ON and a
FIRM foot on the brake, open the hood and have someone shift the car from
neutral to drive and then to reverse. Stand aside the car (not in front!)
and watch the engine. If it moves more than an inch or so, or jumps, it's
a motor mount. If the tranny moves, check the tranny mounts.

Do you hear any kind of rubbing or grinding taking corners? Or a clicking?
This would indicate CV joints, about the same as Universal joints on a RWD
car. You can lift the car with a jack and grab the wheel and try to turn
it with the tranny in park. If you feel a 'notch' or hear a clunk, chances
are it's the CV joint.

My Supra does this same thing, esp when cold, but I KNOW the universals
are shot from having an AT that doesn't shift by itself. I learned how to
shift it nice and smooth, the girl before me didn't! :(

Post by slakka
e

Ask the question. You'll get answers. --
gburnore at DataBasix dot Com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
How you look depends on where you go.
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| ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³ÝÛºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
Official .sig, Accept no substitutes. |
ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³ÝÛºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³
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Ray O

2006-11-10 03:47:50 UTC

When you ask your question, please include some background information,
like:
Mileage on the car and transmission (if the transmission is not original)
Transmission service and repair history
Transmission type, e.g. automatic or manual
If the transmission is acting up, what is happening, what vehicle speeds,
what engine RPM, how long the car has been driven when it acts up, what gear
(if you know what gear), whether the brakes are applied, whether the "OD
off" light on the instrument panel is flashing
Condition of transmission fluid, e.g. red and translucent, brown and burnt
smelling, black and burnt smelling, last time the transmission fluid was
changed and what type of facility did the service
Whether anyone who drives the car brakes with their left foot

--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

slakka

2006-11-10 04:10:24 UTC

Sir thank you for your swift response. i may have to re post next week
as im away from the car at the moment and unable to go over particulars
u requested. iow car in question is at me mums Please bear?
ed

When you ask your question, please include some background information,

like:
Mileage on the car and transmission (if the transmission is not
original)
Transmission service and repair history
Transmission type, e.g. automatic or manual
If the transmission is acting up, what is happening, what vehicle
speeds,
what engine RPM, how long the car has been driven when it acts up, what
gear
(if you know what gear), whether the brakes are applied, whether the
"OD
off" light on the instrument panel is flashing
Condition of transmission fluid, e.g. red and translucent, brown and
burnt
smelling, black and burnt smelling, last time the transmission fluid
was
changed and what type of facility did the service
Whether anyone who drives the car brakes with their left foot

When you ask your question, please include some background information,
Mileage on the car and transmission (if the transmission is not original)
Transmission service and repair history
Transmission type, e.g. automatic or manual
If the transmission is acting up, what is happening, what vehicle speeds,
what engine RPM, how long the car has been driven when it acts up, what gear
(if you know what gear), whether the brakes are applied, whether the "OD
off" light on the instrument panel is flashing
Condition of transmission fluid, e.g. red and translucent, brown and burnt
smelling, black and burnt smelling, last time the transmission fluid was
changed and what type of facility did the service
Whether anyone who drives the car brakes with their left foot
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O

2006-11-10 04:18:16 UTC

Post by slakka
Sir thank you for your swift response. i may have to re post next week
as im away from the car at the moment and unable to go over particulars
u requested. iow car in question is at me mums Please bear?
ed

You are welcome! Is mum having a problem with the car?
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Post by slakka
When you ask your question, please include some background information,
Mileage on the car and transmission (if the transmission is not original)
Transmission service and repair history
Transmission type, e.g. automatic or manual
If the transmission is acting up, what is happening, what vehicle speeds,
what engine RPM, how long the car has been driven when it acts up, what gear
(if you know what gear), whether the brakes are applied, whether the "OD
off" light on the instrument panel is flashing
Condition of transmission fluid, e.g. red and translucent, brown and burnt
smelling, black and burnt smelling, last time the transmission fluid was
changed and what type of facility did the service
Whether anyone who drives the car brakes with their left foot

j***@hotmail.com

2006-11-14 04:20:43 UTC

If there is no other work done recently or damage you know of to the
engine mounts, then check the fluid level and the condition of the auto
trans fluid first. This is the first step when you encounter problems
with the tranny.

slakka

2006-11-14 05:19:53 UTC

Post by j***@hotmail.com
If there is no other work done recently or damage you know of to the
engine mounts, then check the fluid level and the condition of the auto
trans fluid first. This is the first step when you encounter problems
with the tranny.

Should I drain the tyranny fluid and if so, exactly where is the drain
bolt on this model?
91 Camry/4 cylinder/auto trans with overdrive.

ed

Ray O

2006-11-14 06:12:12 UTC

Post by slakka

Should I drain the tyranny fluid and if so, exactly where is the drain
bolt on this model?
91 Camry/4 cylinder/auto trans with overdrive.
ed

If the automatic transmission fluid is not red and translucent or you do not
know the last time it has been changed, then you should change the ATF. The
drain bolt is in the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.

--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

mcbrue

2006-11-15 03:27:53 UTC

The first year of the Lexus ES300 was notorious for their rotten
tranny. It had a little plastic ball in it that would wear out and the
tranny would start shifting funny and/or making a klunk sound. All you
needed to do was take it Hans und Franz at the tranny shop and let them
do their mystical $2000 job on it or to the stealership and let them do
their $4000 magic to it, and it was good as new. Could be the same
problem? The ball was in something where it went up and down with
pressure as you shifted from reverse into drive or other such gears. At
least they explained it to me that way. It screwed up at about 86,000
miles on the wife's kudzu burner.

slakka

2006-11-16 18:50:58 UTC

Post by slakka

Should I drain the tyranny fluid and if so, exactly where is the drain
bolt on this model?
91 Camry/4 cylinder/auto trans with overdrive.
ed

ATF=Auto Transmission Fluid right?

Also is there a brand or viscosity preference?

She's got over 140 thousand miles.

ed

Ray O

2006-11-16 20:11:11 UTC

Should I drain the tyranny fluid and if so, exactly where is the drain
bolt on this model?
91 Camry/4 cylinder/auto trans with overdrive.
ed

If the automatic transmission fluid is not red and translucent or you do not
know the last time it has been changed, then you should change the ATF.
The
drain bolt is in the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.

ATF=Auto Transmission Fluid right?

Sorry, yes, ATF = automatic transmissionn fluid.

Post by slakka
Also is there a brand or viscosity preference?

I do not have a particular brand preference, other than sticking to a name
brand.

ATF is not packaged and classified by viscosity. ATF has a specific type,
for example, your transmission probabaly uses Dexron III - check the
dipstick for the correct ATF type.

Post by slakka
She's got over 140 thousand miles.
ed

If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid flushed. I
would just drain and refill the ATF.

--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ron M.

2006-11-18 21:52:37 UTC

Post by Ray O
If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid flushed.
I would just drain and refill the ATF.

Hi Ray,

I've heard other people offer up this same advice regarding automatic
transmissions with over 100,000 miles on them that contain the original ATF.
However, it's been a while since I was given the mechanical reasoning/logic
behind this advice. Can you provide myself and the rest of the group with
the reasoning behind this suggestion? I do remember something to the effect
that a flush at this point could cause internal component damage to some of
the transmission's moving components. But again, I just can't remember
exactly why.

Thanks in advance!

Ron M.

Ray O

2006-11-18 22:33:41 UTC

Post by Ray O
If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid flushed.
I would just drain and refill the ATF.

Hi Ray,
I've heard other people offer up this same advice regarding automatic
transmissions with over 100,000 miles on them that contain the original
ATF. However, it's been a while since I was given the mechanical
reasoning/logic behind this advice. Can you provide myself and the rest of
the group with the reasoning behind this suggestion? I do remember
something to the effect that a flush at this point could cause internal
component damage to some of the transmission's moving components. But
again, I just can't remember exactly why.
Thanks in advance!
Ron M.

An automatic transmission has internal clutches and bands that are immersed
in the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). As the friction material on the
clutches wear, it is carried by the ATF and tends to settle in tight
passages and at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan as a sludge-like
goo. A power flush could dislodge the goo from where it has settled and get
it stuck in a tight orifice and cause shifting problems. If the
transmission has been flushed routinely, then the goo doesn't have a chance
to accumulate, but if there is a chance that there is a goo accumulation, a
simple drain and refill is a safer course of action.

If you look at the owner's manual, the automaker doesn't even list a
transmission flush in the recommended maintenance interval, just a drain and
refill.

--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

slakka

2006-11-22 21:28:11 UTC

Oh and Ray,

The interior light, dash light and electric windows on the right side
have conked out. Any advise sir? Thanks in advance and a very happy
holiday to you!

ed

Post by Ray O
If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid flushed.
I would just drain and refill the ATF.

Hi Ray,
I've heard other people offer up this same advice regarding automatic
transmissions with over 100,000 miles on them that contain the original
ATF. However, it's been a while since I was given the mechanical
reasoning/logic behind this advice. Can you provide myself and the rest of
the group with the reasoning behind this suggestion? I do remember
something to the effect that a flush at this point could cause internal
component damage to some of the transmission's moving components. But
again, I just can't remember exactly why.
Thanks in advance!
Ron M.

An automatic transmission has internal clutches and bands that are immersed
in the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). As the friction material on the
clutches wear, it is carried by the ATF and tends to settle in tight
passages and at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan as a sludge-like
goo. A power flush could dislodge the goo from where it has settled and get
it stuck in a tight orifice and cause shifting problems. If the
transmission has been flushed routinely, then the goo doesn't have a chance
to accumulate, but if there is a chance that there is a goo accumulation, a
simple drain and refill is a safer course of action.
If you look at the owner's manual, the automaker doesn't even list a
transmission flush in the recommended maintenance interval, just a drain and
refill.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O

2006-11-22 21:39:22 UTC

Post by slakka
Oh and Ray,
The interior light, dash light and electric windows on the right side
have conked out. Any advise sir? Thanks in advance and a very happy
holiday to you!
ed

Check the wires snaking from the door frame thorugh the door for damage,
check the dome fuse, make sure the switch the rubber boot at the lower
corner for the door frame pops out when the door is opened. If the switch
is stuck, carefully peel back the rubber boot and spray with WD-40.

A happy holiday to you too!
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Post by slakka

Post by Ray O
If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid flushed.
I would just drain and refill the ATF.

Hi Ray,
I've heard other people offer up this same advice regarding automatic
transmissions with over 100,000 miles on them that contain the original
ATF. However, it's been a while since I was given the mechanical
reasoning/logic behind this advice. Can you provide myself and the rest of
the group with the reasoning behind this suggestion? I do remember
something to the effect that a flush at this point could cause internal
component damage to some of the transmission's moving components. But
again, I just can't remember exactly why.
Thanks in advance!
Ron M.

An automatic transmission has internal clutches and bands that are immersed
in the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). As the friction material on the
clutches wear, it is carried by the ATF and tends to settle in tight
passages and at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan as a sludge-like
goo. A power flush could dislodge the goo from where it has settled and get
it stuck in a tight orifice and cause shifting problems. If the
transmission has been flushed routinely, then the goo doesn't have a chance
to accumulate, but if there is a chance that there is a goo accumulation, a
simple drain and refill is a safer course of action.
If you look at the owner's manual, the automaker doesn't even list a
transmission flush in the recommended maintenance interval, just a drain and
refill.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ron M.

2006-11-23 14:48:37 UTC

Post by Ray O
If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid flushed.
I would just drain and refill the ATF.

Hi Ray,
I've heard other people offer up this same advice regarding automatic
transmissions with over 100,000 miles on them that contain the original
ATF. However, it's been a while since I was given the mechanical
reasoning/logic behind this advice. Can you provide myself and the rest
of the group with the reasoning behind this suggestion? I do remember
something to the effect that a flush at this point could cause internal
component damage to some of the transmission's moving components. But
again, I just can't remember exactly why.
Thanks in advance!
Ron M.

An automatic transmission has internal clutches and bands that are
immersed in the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). As the friction
material on the clutches wear, it is carried by the ATF and tends to
settle in tight passages and at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan
as a sludge-like goo. A power flush could dislodge the goo from where it
has settled and get it stuck in a tight orifice and cause shifting
problems. If the transmission has been flushed routinely, then the goo
doesn't have a chance to accumulate, but if there is a chance that there
is a goo accumulation, a simple drain and refill is a safer course of
action.
If you look at the owner's manual, the automaker doesn't even list a
transmission flush in the recommended maintenance interval, just a drain
and refill.

Thanks for the detailed explanation Ray O. After I read your response, it
came back to me what the other guy had stated during a conversation that I
had with him a while back. It makes sense. I think the best bet for owners
of vehicles with automatic transmissions is to change the ATF every 30,000
miles max.

Ray O

2006-11-24 02:54:05 UTC

Post by Ray O
If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid
flushed. I would just drain and refill the ATF.

Hi Ray,
I've heard other people offer up this same advice regarding automatic
transmissions with over 100,000 miles on them that contain the original
ATF. However, it's been a while since I was given the mechanical
reasoning/logic behind this advice. Can you provide myself and the rest
of the group with the reasoning behind this suggestion? I do remember
something to the effect that a flush at this point could cause internal
component damage to some of the transmission's moving components. But
again, I just can't remember exactly why.
Thanks in advance!
Ron M.

An automatic transmission has internal clutches and bands that are
immersed in the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). As the friction
material on the clutches wear, it is carried by the ATF and tends to
settle in tight passages and at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan
as a sludge-like goo. A power flush could dislodge the goo from where it
has settled and get it stuck in a tight orifice and cause shifting
problems. If the transmission has been flushed routinely, then the goo
doesn't have a chance to accumulate, but if there is a chance that there
is a goo accumulation, a simple drain and refill is a safer course of
action.
If you look at the owner's manual, the automaker doesn't even list a
transmission flush in the recommended maintenance interval, just a drain
and refill.

You're welcome!

--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

g***@gmail.com

2006-12-19 01:14:31 UTC

I have a 96 Toyota Camry V-6 wagon with automatic transmission, 146,000
miles. It was my parents', meticulously maintained by a Toyota
dealership. In the last year, I have had to repair rack and pinion leak
and now have a big transmission fluid leak from O-rings on front of
transmission. I am going to replace all seals and gaskets on the front
of transmission while I'm at it (e.g., seal around pump), but repair
person proposed rebuilding entire transmission at same time as
proactive repair while the transmission is out. Friction material from
clutch wear is evident in pan (do I have that right) although I don't
think anything alarming. I need to get another 50,000+ miles out of
this car, but rebuilding transmission would double the price of this
repair, to about $2300. Is this a wise preventive measure, totally
unnecessary, or am I just better off gambling that it will be ok for a
long time to come? I need to make this decision by tomorrow morning so
please advise. I do not see much on the web to suggest that 96 Camrys
have a history of transmission problems.

Thanks,
Jane

Post by Ray O
If the ATF is original, I would not have the transmission fluid flushed.
I would just drain and refill the ATF.

Hi Ray,
I've heard other people offer up this same advice regarding automatic
transmissions with over 100,000 miles on them that contain the original
ATF. However, it's been a while since I was given the mechanical
reasoning/logic behind this advice. Can you provide myself and the rest of
the group with the reasoning behind this suggestion? I do remember
something to the effect that a flush at this point could cause internal
component damage to some of the transmission's moving components. But
again, I just can't remember exactly why.
Thanks in advance!
Ron M.

An automatic transmission has internal clutches and bands that are immersed
in the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). As the friction material on the
clutches wear, it is carried by the ATF and tends to settle in tight
passages and at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan as a sludge-like
goo. A power flush could dislodge the goo from where it has settled and get
it stuck in a tight orifice and cause shifting problems. If the
transmission has been flushed routinely, then the goo doesn't have a chance
to accumulate, but if there is a chance that there is a goo accumulation, a
simple drain and refill is a safer course of action.
If you look at the owner's manual, the automaker doesn't even list a
transmission flush in the recommended maintenance interval, just a drain and
refill.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O

2006-12-19 06:56:45 UTC

Post by g***@gmail.com
I have a 96 Toyota Camry V-6 wagon with automatic transmission, 146,000
miles. It was my parents', meticulously maintained by a Toyota
dealership. In the last year, I have had to repair rack and pinion leak
and now have a big transmission fluid leak from O-rings on front of
transmission. I am going to replace all seals and gaskets on the front
of transmission while I'm at it (e.g., seal around pump), but repair
person proposed rebuilding entire transmission at same time as
proactive repair while the transmission is out. Friction material from
clutch wear is evident in pan (do I have that right) although I don't
think anything alarming. I need to get another 50,000+ miles out of
this car, but rebuilding transmission would double the price of this
repair, to about $2300. Is this a wise preventive measure, totally
unnecessary, or am I just better off gambling that it will be ok for a
long time to come? I need to make this decision by tomorrow morning so
please advise. I do not see much on the web to suggest that 96 Camrys
have a history of transmission problems.
Thanks,
Jane

It is difficult to estimate the remaining life on a transmission, but an
additional 50,000 miles would put the original transmission at 200,000
miles. Depending on how the vehicle has been driven, that may be at the end
of its useful life without a rebuild. Find out what kind of warranty you
get for the $2,300 and how much a remanufactured transmission is. If the
warranty is decent and if whoever is doing the work is competent, then you
should be able to easily get another 150,000 miles after the rebuild.

--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Lee Richardson

2006-11-10 18:29:50 UTC